The Bold Coast Adventure: Maine's Wild Edge

The Bold Coast is for travelers who find Bar Harbor too crowded, too polished, too predictable. This is the Maine that tourism forgot—or never found. Fog rolls in thick here. Cliffs drop straight to the North Atlantic. Fishing boats outnumber yachts. And the landscape rivals anything in Ireland or Scotland.

Day 1: Schoodic Peninsula & Coastal Route

Morning: Beyond Acadia

Depart Bar Harbor area (9am) or arrive from Portland (4 hours)
Route 1 East through Ellsworth
Turn onto Schoodic Peninsula (Route 186)
Winter Harbor - Small fishing village, last gas/food

Late Morning: Schoodic Section of Acadia

Schoodic Point (11am-1pm)
- Acadia National Park’s quiet section
- Massive waves crash against pink granite
- Far fewer crowds than Mount Desert Island
- Walk the rocky shores
- Free (if you have Acadia pass) or $15/vehicle
Schoodic Loop Road - One-way scenic drive
Picnic lunch - Bring food from Winter Harbor

Afternoon: Downeast Scenic Drive

Continue Route 1 East (2pm)
Petit Manan National Wildlife Refuge - Optional short walk
Milbridge - Brief stop, shipbuilding town
Arrive Jonesport (3:30pm)

Late Afternoon: Great Wass Island

Great Wass Island Preserve (4pm)
- Mud Hole Trail - 2.5 miles through coastal bog and forest
- Ends at dramatic rocky coast
- Unique coastal ecosystem
- Boardwalks through bogs
- Or skip if tired - Save energy for tomorrow’s big hike

Evening: Jonesport

Dinner at Tall Barney’s - Local seafood spot
Walk Jonesport waterfront - Working harbor, lobster boats
Early to bed - Small town, limited nightlife

Lodging: Stay in Machias (30 min east) - Harbor House or Machias Motor Inn

Day 2: Cutler Coast - The Bold Coast Trail

Morning: Prepare for Epic Hike

Early breakfast in Machias - Helen’s Restaurant (legendary blueberry pie, also does breakfast)
Drive to Cutler (8:30am, 30 min)
Cutler Coast Public Reserved Land trailhead (9am)

All Day: Bold Coast Trail

Bold Coast Trail Loop (9am-4pm)
- 10 miles, challenging terrain
- Bring: Sturdy boots, water (2+ liters), lunch, layers, rain gear
- Highlights:
  - Dramatic 100-150 foot coastal cliffs
  - Spruce and fir forests
  - Coastal bogs with bog bridges
  - Fairy Head - Most dramatic viewpoint
  - Black Cove views
  - Seal watching from cliffs
- Caution: Exposed clifftops, stay back from edges
- Weather: Can change fast, fog common

Alternative if 10 miles too much:

Coastal Trail only - 5.5 miles out-and-back to best views
Turn around at Fairy Head - See highlights without full loop

Late Afternoon: Recovery

Optional Machiasport detour - Stop at Jasper Beach or Fort O’Brien for golden-hour views over Machias Bay before returning to town.
Return to Machias (5pm)
Rest at lodging - You earned it!

Evening: Machias

Dinner at Helen’s Restaurant (6pm)
- Blueberry pie - Mandatory! Legendary for reason
- Home cooking, local institution
Walk Machias waterfront - Short, gentle stroll
Early evening - Big day tomorrow

Lodging: Machias (same as previous night)

Day 3: Lubec & Easternmost Point

Morning: Drive to Lubec

Depart Machias (9am)
Perry 45th Parallel stop - Quick photo at the halfway-to-North-Pole marker and Passamaquoddy Bay views.
Route 189 to Lubec (45 min)
Pass through Whiting - Last services before Lubec

Late Morning: West Quoddy Head

West Quoddy Head State Park (10am)
- West Quoddy Head Lighthouse - Iconic red-and-white stripes
- Easternmost point in the United States
- Visitor center (seasonal)
- Coastal trail - 2-mile easy loop along cliffs
- Views to Grand Manan Island (Canada)
- Thick fog common - Embrace it, adds atmosphere

Afternoon: Lubec Exploration

Return to Lubec (12pm)
Lunch at Cohill’s Inn - Upscale option
Or: Frank’s Dockside - Casual, fried seafood
Water Street - Downtown Lubec stroll
Historic Lubec - Former sardine canning capital
McCurdy Smokehouse (if open) - Restored herring smokehouse

Late Afternoon: Optional Puffin Tour OR Canada

Option A: Puffin Tour (if pre-booked)

Bold Coast Charter or Sea Watch Tours (from Cutler/Lubec)
- Machias Seal Island - Disputed territory, prime puffin colony
- Limited permits, book months ahead
- $150-250/person, full day
- Atlantic puffins - Walk among them!
- Only place in U.S. to legally land near puffins

Option B: Campobello Island, Canada

Roosevelt Campobello International Park (30 min)
- Franklin D. Roosevelt’s summer cottage
- Beautiful island, Canadian side
- Need passport to cross border
- Free park entrance
- Coastal hiking trails

Option C: Relax in Lubec

Explore town - Galleries, shops
Cobscook Bay State Park - Easy trails, dramatic tides
Early departure prep

Evening: Final Night

Dinner at Atlantic House Coffee - Seafood, local vibe
Sunset at Quoddy Head - Return for evening light
Or: Mulholland Point Lighthouse - Another option
Pack for departure tomorrow

Lodging: Lubec - Peacock House B&B or West Quoddy Station

Day 4 (Optional): Return Journey

Morning: Departure

Breakfast at Water Street Tavern (seasonal)
Last Lubec walk - Quiet morning streets

Return Options:

Option A: Direct Route (fastest)

Route 1 West to Ellsworth/Bangor
I-95 South to Portland
4-5 hours total

Option B: Scenic Return via Eastport

Detour to Eastport (40 min from Lubec)
- Easternmost city (Lubec is easternmost town)
- Old Sow Whirlpool - World’s largest tidal whirlpool
- Reversing Falls Park
- Add 2 hours to journey

Option C: Return via Downeast Lakes

Inland route through Washington County
- Grand Lake Stream - Pristine lake region
- Add 1-2 hours, extremely scenic

Essential Information

Best Time to Visit

Summer (July-August): Warmest, fog still common, puffin season Fall (September-October): Dramatic skies, fewer tourists, cooler Spring (May-June): Wildflowers, migratory birds, unpredictable weather Winter (November-April): Very few services open, extreme isolation

What to Pack

Waterproof hiking boots: Bogs, rain, essential
Rain gear: Fog = wetness, pack good jacket
Layers: Even summer mornings cold (40s-50s)
Bug spray: Mosquitoes and black flies (June-July)
Water: 2+ liters for Cutler Coast hike
Lunch/snacks: Limited options on trails
Camera: Lighthouses, cliffs, wildlife
Binoculars: Seals, eagles, seabirds
Offline maps: Cell service spotty-to-none

Fog: Feature, Not Bug

Expect fog - This is the foggiest coast in the U.S.

Creates dramatic atmosphere
Makes green moss and lichen glow
Lighthouse foghorns add ambiance
Black rocks pop against white mist
Don’t reschedule because of fog - It’s part of the experience

What Makes This Special

Authentic: These are working fishing towns, not tourist villages
Dramatic: Cliffs rival Ireland, Scotland, Iceland
Remote: Feels like end of the earth (it nearly is)
Wildlife: Puffins, seals, eagles, whales offshore
Tides: 20-28 foot tidal range in Cobscook Bay
Easternmost: Stand where America’s day begins

Practical Considerations

Gas: Fill up in Machias, limited options farther east Groceries: Stock up in Machias Cell Service: Verizon spotty, others mostly none Restaurants: Limited, close early (7-8pm) Lodging: Book ahead, few options Cash: Have some, not everywhere takes cards Weather: Can change instantly, be prepared

Safety Notes

Cutler Coast Trail: Remote, no services, tell someone your plans
Clifftops: Stay back from edges, unstable in places
Tides: Extreme range, don’t get trapped on rocks
Fog: Can be disorienting, stay on marked trails
Wildlife: Keep distance from seals (especially pupping season)
Weather: Hypothermia risk even in summer if wet

Lodging: $300-450 (3 nights, limited options) Meals: $150-250 (mostly casual dining) Gas: $100-150 (long distances) Park fees: $15-30 Puffin tour: $150-250 (if doing it) Total: $715-1,130 (without puffin tour) With puffin tour: $865-1,380

Budget Tips

Camp: Cobscook Bay State Park ($35/night)
Pack lunch: Limited restaurant options
Free activities: Lighthouse visits, coastal trails
Skip puffin tour: Expensive, limited availability
Shoulder season: Lower lodging rates (if open)

Extend Your Trip

Add Days For:

Puffin tour - If not already included, add 1 day
Eastport exploration - Extra day for easternmost city
Grand Lake Stream - Wilderness canoeing, fishing
More hiking: Pleasant Bay Preserve, other trails

Combine With:

Acadia (Bar Harbor): Start there, end here (or reverse)
St. John Valley: Continue to Aroostook County
Saint John, New Brunswick: Cross to Canada (passport needed)

Puffin Tours: The Splurge

Machias Seal Island is the holy grail of puffin viewing:

Only U.S. location where you can land near puffins
Limited permits daily
Book 3-6 months ahead
Disputed territory (U.S./Canada)
Season: June-August
Best: Late June-early July

Tour operators:

Bold Coast Charter (Cutler)
Sea Watch Tours (various)
Norton of Jonesport (boat from Jonesport)

What to expect:

Full day (6-8 hours)
Potentially rough seas
Limited time on island (2-3 hours)
Walk among nesting puffins
Also see razorbills, Arctic terns
Worth every penny if you get permit

Alternatives to Full Cutler Hike

If 10 miles too much:

Fairy Head Out-and-Back - 5.5 miles, see best parts
Black Point Cove - Shorter coastal walk
Skip hiking, add:
- More time at Schoodic
- Extra day in Lubec area
- Slow down pace

Dining Highlights

Machias:

Helen’s Restaurant - Blueberry pie (seriously)
Riverside Inn - Upscale option
Blue Bird Ranch - Comfort food

Lubec:

Cohill’s Inn - Fine dining
Frank’s Dockside - Casual seafood
Atlantic House Coffee - Creative menu
Water Street Tavern - Pub food

Jonesport:

Tall Barney’s - Local institution

Why the Bold Coast?

If Bar Harbor feels like Maine packaged for tourists, the Bold Coast feels like Maine before anyone thought to package it. This is where Mainers vacation. Where fishing boats still leave at 4am. Where fog is so thick you can’t see the lighthouse but you hear its mournful horn.

You’ll hike clifftops with 100-foot drops to crashing surf. You’ll stand at America’s easternmost point and see Canada across the water. You’ll eat blueberry pie in a town with one stoplight. You’ll drive roads where moose are the traffic.

This isn’t easy Maine. It’s foggy, remote, and requires effort. But if you want rugged over refined, dramatic over domesticated, authentic over accessible—the Bold Coast delivers.

It’s the Ireland you didn’t know Maine had. The edge of America, wild and raw.